It’s been 8 months since we moved next to Smith Rock. The overall climbing technique, trusting the footwork, speed and confidence has improved remarkably. I wanted to see how fast I can lead, set up an anchor, belay from above and transition to the next pitch. So we did Dirty Pinkos, 4 pitch sport route on Red Wall at Smith Rock. Interesting moves, a 5.9+ crux traverse, a 5.8 horizontal pitch and final V0 boulder problem. On average I spent 15 minutes per pitch, and we finished the whole climb in 2 hours. It’s an effective way to relax after work and earn beer and delicious Korean Fries.
I hope in a couple of months, 5.10 trad lead starts to feel casual just like 5.10 sport.